Malibu. Terroir.  When one thinks of Malibu, it generally brings to mind a place in California where surf meets stardom.  When one thinks of “terroir” (the French word for soil) — at least in the food and wine universe — it brings to mind that specific location, be it a valley or one particular hillside where the grapes of a particular wine are grown.  Great wines are vins de terroir, rather than vins de variété.  In other words, they express some characteristic of their origin: the soil, water, wind, etc., rather than the simple characteristic of the grape variety itself.  This is individuality; this is nuance — and a man named George Rosenthal has apparently had the passion and the taste (and the means) to create some truly excellent and refreshingly distinctive wines in the hills of Malibu.

A successful owner of movie studios, hotels, and other enterprises, Rosenthal spent several years scouting for the right location before settling on Malibu’s Newton Canyon in 1987.  Four miles inland and 1,400 feet above the coastal fog, Newton Canyon had the proper soil and microclimatic conditions: cool evening breezes tempering warm, sunny days.  He started with acclaimed wine maker Bruno D’Alfonso and, in 1997, enlisted world-renowned wine craftsman Christian Roguenant, who spared no effort to bring out the unique terroir of the site: the reds are unfiltered, and the Chardonnays, as in Burgundy, are crisp and complex — not overly manipulated with “buttery” components, as is so common in California.

Rosenthal - The Malibu Estate

Rosenthal Director Neil McNally

Buzzine’s senior editorial staff — myself, wife Lauren, son Louis, and his gal Emberly — had the recent pleasure of meeting with Rosenthal winery director Neil McNally at their Malibu tasting room, located adjacent the famous Surfrider Beach.  From there, we drove up through the winding hills to the magnificent Rosenthal - The Malibu Estate vineyards, which features a sumptuous Spanish-style manor nestled among bucolic hillside vines.

After a tour of the vineyards — each plot designated to a particular varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verlot, and Chardonnay — we settled in the estate’s grand kitchen for some serious wine tasting. Neil proved to be an affable and knowledgeable host, and we all had a fun and informative time.  As Buzzine got a bit buzzed, the pleasant weather and scenic surroundings seemed to morph into a perfect “work-related double date” for two couples.

But something was missing — and it wasn’t the roses.  I am of the opinion that wine is meant to be enjoyed with food.  Whatever I gain from a wine tasting, I don’t really know the particular beverage until I pair it with a proper meal.  Flavors in wine enhance and play with flavors in the cuisine — one’s palate evolves and changes as things intermix.  Add to that the joy of wine and great company, be it one’s mate or one’s friends, or both, I proposed, for the following week, an official Buzzine senior editorial staff dinner with which to properly sample — and savour – the fine and uniquely crafted wines of Rosenthal - The Malibu Estate.

The dinner.  It had been an auspicious day.  The stock market dropped 8,000 points and then rebounded 9,000; Sarah Palin shot Dick Cheney on a moose hunt, and Barack Obama attempted to walk on water and almost drowned. On top of that, a full moon was rising.  Lauren and I live in a 1920s-era house nestled in the Hollywood hills beneath that famous sign.  She’s a serious cook and I’m an avid barbecuer, with several grills perched upon our roof-top deck overlooking the city.  So along with Louis and Emberly, we got down to Buzzine-style business.

For the first course, we served mesquite grilled red and yellow peppers with baked goat cheese over baby greens. This paired excellently with the Rosenthal 2006 Chardonnay: an elegant, medium-bodied wine with hints of apple, pear, stone fruit, and just a dash of vanilla from French oak ageing.  The fresh, lingering finish worked nicely with the grilled peppers and tangy goat cheese. Yumbo!  My son Louis noted that the wine seemed more French in style than typically Californian.  As Louis actually is French, I complimented the lad’s cultural and biological astuteness.

Next I did wild-caught Alaskan salmon, grilled on a fiery cedar board, accented with maple syrup and fresh thyme, served along with Lauren’s baby red potatoes — add to that the Rosenthal 2004 Merlot – et voila, we had quite a party going!

This wine was rich and more complex than so many California Merlots.  Full yet supple, with hints of black cherry, plum, chocolate, and spice — a lingering finish with just the requisite tannins; the savory salmon came alive with sips of this wonderful red varietal. Buzzine’s editorial staff was quite pleased.

The Merlot and salmon disappeared faster than I had planned, so it was time to run back up to the deck and do my trickiest course of the evening: grilled Muscovy duck breast – tricky because the fat beneath the skin needs to be cooked down, which tends to cause major unwanted flare-up.  Fortunately, my sobriety was still reasonably intact and I got the quacker just tender-pink right — along with grilled endive — without burning my hillside down.

Now things got really interesting: the Rosenthal 2004 Meritage.  Meritage is a licensed designation for California wines that blend two or more classic Bordeaux varietals — in this instance, rich and spicy Cabernet Franc balanced with smaller amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. As the Rosenthal Estate only produces approximately 200 cases of their Meritage — and (as with all their wines) only on vintage years — this was a special treat.

A beguiling nose, hinting of flowers and spice, then the taste of blackberries, leather, toast, vanilla, subtle white pepper, and then cassis.  The tannins were silky and seductive with a lingering finish. The pleasure that I partook from this elegant wine helped erase what lingering vestiges of guilt I felt over the carnivorous fate of our dearly departed fowl.  However, I must confess that both the duck and the wine were given an able partner in the tasty Cumberland sauce that Louis had prepared from his grandfather’s recipe.  As we savoured our duck and Meritage, I recounted some stories about Louis’s maternal grandparents, Francois-Xavier and Claude Lalanne — master hosts and connoisseurs at whose table I had my own first wine epiphanies — when on weekends, Baron Guy and Marie-Helene de Rothschild would come to dinner bearing some of their family’s wine: “Zee ‘28 should be drunk now… Zee ‘45 has opened up nicely, alors!” (And I, a kid of humble origins from L.A.’s Crenshaw district…)  One night, Francois was intently preparing a sauce of wild mushrooms he had picked from the neighboring forest of Fontainebleau.   When someone called out that the president was on the phone for him, Francois, refusing to ruin his sauce, did not take the call.

But I digress.  The Rosenthal ‘04 Meritage and Francois-Xavier’s Cumberland sauce over grilled duck was generating so much conversation that the wine seemed to disappear way too quickly. So, although not officially part of our wine pairing, I opened a bottle of Rosenthal ‘02 Meritage I had on hand for comparison sake — a move the editorial staff approved of in the spirit of journalistic inquiry. Indeed, spirits were getting a bit convivial at this point.  Two couples. One family.  Good food. Great wine.

Lauren, always the photographer, was now trying to steady herself on a wobbly stool in order to get a better photo angle of the table…and WHOA!  Caught in the nick of time by yours truly.  Her neck was not broken, and Lauren thought the ‘04 compared quite well to the ‘02.

My sobriety going fast, it was time again for our next course.  Lauren gave me a giddy farewell kiss as I ambled back up the stairs toward my barbecue deck with another hefty glass of the ‘02 Meritage, trusting my own balance was as good as that of the sublimely blended wine in hand.

Grass-fed New Zealand lamb chops and zucchini spears were, fortunately, easier and required less micro-attention than the duck, as in this case, the meat does well with a quick, fat-searing flare-up. Fortunately, I got them off while still pink and succulent in the center.  Covered in roasted garlic and redolent of rosemary, seared cracked pepper, and a hint of balsamic, the chops proved a hit with the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Rosenthal ‘03 Cabernet was deep ruby red and and exhibited aromas of berries and oak.  At first soft to the pallet, then balanced by moderate tannins and layers of flavor, dark cherries, raspberries, spices, oak, and a hint of minerality, bespoke it’s unique, Newton Canyon terrior.  The finish was long, smooth, and satisfying. This Cabernet held perfectly with the full-flavored cuisine and actually brought out, complimented and, shall we say, danced with its bold culinary partner.  In other words, the wine gave complexity, depth, and added pleasure to the flavors in the food.

Sitting in the warm glow of the candlelight, we commented how wonderfully the various wines tasted with our meal.  Life was good.

Later that evening, the full moon was still raging. Louis and I busted out some Cuban cigars which we shared with our ladies in celebration of democracy and the birth, death, and re-birth of capitalism…or something.  After a while, Louis and Emberly made it home (next door).

What a positively delightful night!

Soooo… in conclusion, now that we have examined them under proper conditions, we can say that Rosenthal - The Malibu Estate wines are a “spare no expense” effort — in the strategic manner of the well-funded Opus One — but on a smaller and much more hand-crafted, artisan scale.  The wines are of the highest quality, distinctly different from those of Napa Valley and California’s Central Coast, for Rosenthal wines exhibit the terroir of Newton Canyon and the Malibu hills.  In the $20-$38 range for Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignons (and $75 for the très limited Meritage), they are quite the bargain — to be truly savored with your favorite food, family, and friends.

Read Richard Elfman’s recent “roughing it” adventure, where he crossed paths with wine maker Christian Roguenant’s Baileyana.

• 2 red peppers
• 2 yellow peppers
• Firm 8 oz. log goat cheese
• Mixed baby lettuces
• Extra virgin olive oil
• Balsamic vinegar
• Coarse sea salt
• Freshly ground black pepper

Select plump, juicy, Holland peppers, if possible — the thicker the better. First cut approx. 3/4″ off the tops and bottoms of the peppers. Then carefully remove the seeds and ribs. Slice the pepper open to create a single, flat strip. This will take a bit of gentle manipulation, bending and pressing (and don’t worry if breaks — just more pieces to turn over on the grill). Coat with olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt. Grill over medium coals, inner side down until the pepper seems to unstiffen and relax a bit, then grill the skin side until slightly charred.

Cut the goat cheese into 2oz. medallions (firm, fresh goat cheese is preferable). Lay each piece on its side in an oven-proof pan, not letting them touch each other. Press your thumb to make an imprint in each one, and drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle freshly ground pepper, and bake at 325 for approximately 10 minutes.

Toss the salad greens with olive oil and just a smidgeon of balsamic vinegar (we want to leave room for the flavors of the grilled peppers, goat cheese, and wine). Cut the grilled peppers into 2″ strips and arrange over greens on each plate, alternating red & yellow. Put a medallion of the partially melted goat cheese on top. Peppers can be pre-grilled and served at room temperature, if you wish.

• 2 - 2 1/2 lb. salmon filet
• Fresh thyme
• Maple syrup
• Ground sea salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 7″ x 16″ untreated cedar-board (now commonly sold in better markets)

Soak the cedar-board overnight. Place the salmon, skin down, on the cedar board. Salt lightly, pepper generously (and, using some foil or cellophane, gently press the spice into the fish). Lay some sprigs of thyme across the salmon every three inches or so. Prepare a ridiculously hot barbecue with plenty of charcoal. Carefully place the cedar-board on the grill. Quickly drizzle some maple syrup over the salmon and close the lid, leaving all the air vents open. Cooking time will take approximately 12-15 minutes. Don’t check the salmon until the 12-minute mark, as opening the lid lets the heat out, and we need all that heat fully circulating to cook both sides of the fish. A quick test with a spatula will tell you if the fish is done — it should start to flake. Ideally, the salmon will still be a tad translucent within rather than fully opaque, although many Americans insist on everything being overcooked a bit. Fortunately, the moisture in the cedar gets well-imparted to the fish — enough to protect juiciness in spite of possible overcooking. In other words, this is a dish that generally does not demand exact timing to come out delicious. Scottish salmon is easiest because of its high oil content. Wild pacific salmon is perhaps the most savory, but its leaner meat demands more exact timing. So if you are juggling many other factors in your meal, and depending upon your sobriety at the moment, go with Scottish until you get the hang of cedar-board grilling.

Please be careful removing the board from the grill, as it will be smoldering hot. Use two good mitts and two sturdy barbecue spatulas. Do not remove the salmon from the cedar-board — rather, place the cedar-board on a wooden serving board and present as such.

Note: For those of you with larger crowds and a larger grill. I often do whole salmons, from 5-10 lbs, depending. Have your fish department butterfly the salmon, remove the head, but leave the tail on – the whole shebang makes a beautiful presentation. Spread the fish open on the cedar-board, skin side down, and just add salt, pepper, thyme, and a generous drizzle of maple syrup — the maple marries brilliantly with the smoking cedar. Again, make a really hot fire. Don’t worry if the board starts burning — that is part of the fun. You can always spray a little water once it is removed from the grill so as to avoid setting off smoke alarms, should you be dining indoors. I sometimes go grill-macho “traditional” and place the board directly onto the coals, in the original Native American style. This makes for nice visual theater, but make sure to use silicone oven mitts (Smart & Final carries them).

Cooking time will vary, but start checking after 15 minutes. A 24″ x 10″ board will usually hold a 4-6 pound salmon (and don’t worry if an inch or two of tail hangs over the edge). Cedar boards of various sizes can be ordered from bbqwoods.com.

Roasted Baby Red Potatoes

• 12 baby red potatoes
• Water
• Olive oil
• Coarse ground sea salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Any herbs you desire, such as rosemary, thyme, parsley…

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Bring large pot of water to a boil. Add potatoes and boil for approximately 10 minutes, until tender but not too soft. Drain potatoes and transfer to a small glass baking dish. Drizzle olive oil generously and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and herbs, if desired. Toss. Bake 15-30 minutes, stirring once.

• 2 duck breasts, preferably Muscovy (with skin, no bones)
• Coarse ground sea salt
• 4 endives
• Toasted sesame oil
• 6 oz. red wine
• 4 oranges

With a sharp knife, score the skin of the duck breasts, in parallel lines, about an inch apart. Salt both sides of the duck breasts generously. Marinate overnight in a plastic bag with wine and orange slices, turning occasionally.

Prepare a medium fire. Start cooking the duck breasts, skin side down, making sure to choke off the air events enough to prevent flare-up from duck fat drippings. Grill approximately 6 minutes, until the skin is a bit charred — we want the skin crispy. Turn over and grill another 6-8 minutes, but be careful not to overcook. The meat should be pinkish.

Remove from grill and let rest a few minutes. Slice and serve with Cumberland sauce.

Cut the endive in half length-wise. Drizzle generously with toasted sesame oil. Salt lightly. Grill until tender and lightly browned.

Cumberland Sauce:

• Water
• Salt
• 1.5 Tbsp minced shallot
• Zest of one lemon
• One julienned orange
• 1 3/4 cups red currant jelly
• 1/2 cup Tawny Port
• Dash of powdered ginger
• Dash of cayenne
• Juice of one lemon
• Juice of one orange

Blanche the lemon zest, the shallot, and the julienned orange in lightly salted water. Strain the water out and put the ingredients in a ceramic bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and mix them very well. Allow it to cool before serving.

• 8 lamb chops (rib chops, thickly cut, 2 ribs per chop)
• Fresh rosemary
• 16 large garlic cloves
• Course sea salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Olive oil
• Balsamic vinegar
• 4 medium/small zucchini
• Paul Prudhomme’s Vegetable Magic (or salt & pepper)

Coat the ribs in olive oil and a good dash of balsamic vinegar. Sprinkle very lightly with coarse salt and very generously with freshly ground pepper. Sprinkle generously with fresh rosemary leaves (pulled or cut from the little branches). Press the herbs and spices into the chops. Cut the garlic cloves in half (lengthwise & sideways so as to create the broadest exposed surfaces).  Press the fresh exposed side of the cloves into the meat. Marinate overnight in a plastic bag with excess air squeezed out.

Set the garlic aside and grill chops over fairly hot fire, lid off for a minute or so, searing each side — I don’t even mind a brief flare-up to really roast the cracked pepper and char-sizzle the fat. Then cover with lid, choke off some air to lower the heat, and grill another few minutes per side — generally around 8-9 minutes total, but be sure to keep meat pink on the inside.  Let sit at least 5 minutes before serving; it’s still cooking a bit internally.

The garlic cloves can be roasted in the oven or fried in a pan with olive oil, or sometimes I just lay them out in some folded foil and grill them along with the chops (but make sure garlic is fully cooked).

Cut the zucchini lengthwise, coat with olive oil, sprinkle on some Paul Prudhomme Vegetable Magic (or lightly salt and pepper). Grill until lightly browned on each side.

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